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Glossary of Textile Terms and Definitions, I - Textile Dictionary

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Letter I 
I

Iaedryun: A short jacket, often richly embroidered, worn mostly in kutch and saurashtra, in combination with an embroidered pyjama (q.v.). 

Ikat: Term applied to the resist-dye process in which designs are reserved in warp or weft yarns by tying off small bundles of yarn with palm-leaf strips or similar material to prevent penetration of dye. From the Indonesian mengikat, 'to tie' or 'to bind'. 

Ikat: A method of tie dyeing yarn prior to weaving. May be in warp only (warp ikat), weft only (weft ikat), or both warp & weft (double ikat) results in a blurred pattern effect. 

Illusion: A very fine sheer net fabric usually of nylon or silk. Used for veils. 

Imberline: A woven fabric with various colored stripes in the warp often separated by gold thread. Used in upholstery, drapery. 

Immature Cotton: Cotton in which the thickening of the fibre wall is appreciably less than usual., Note. If growth conditions are not favourable, possibly as a result of attack by disease or through plant senility, or occasionally because of the genetic nature of the variety, the secondary-wall thickening may first be delayed and then proceed at a reduced rate or wall development may cease prematurely: the ripened boil will contain a high proportion of developed immature fibres. 

Impression Mark: The relief print-off of defects, e.g. slubs, under excessive rolling tension. 

Indiennes: In the 17th and 18th centuries the name given to all eastern painted and printed cloths, whatever their country of origin. 

Indigo: A dye with a distinctive blue color. The chemical compound that constitutes the indigo dye is called indigotin. Historically, indigo played an important role in many countries' economies because natural blue dyes are rare. Among other uses, it is used in the production of denim cloth for blue jeans. 

Indigo: A type of blue dyestuff originally obtained from the indigo plant but now produced synthetically. Used for denim. 

Indigo & Color: Refers to yarn dyed fabrics using a combinations of indigo dyed yarns and yarns of other colors together in the design. 

Indigo & Overprinted: Refers to printing done on an indigo denim, indigo chambray, or indigo dyed fabric. 

Indigo Dyed: Refers to a fabric which has been piece dyed with indigo dye. 

Indirect Warping: The transference of yam from a package creel onto a swift from which it is subsequently wound onto a beam. 

Infusion Technology: An infused polymer construction process that reinforces the fabric of outerwear garments in the places where they take the most abuse: zipper and pocket flaps, and other high-abrasion areas. The technology blends polymers, penetrates deep into the inner fibers, and surrounds them to form a permanent bond. this tough, resilient matrix ensures a highly wear-resistant surface while allowing the fabric to remain lightweight and flexible. The infused polymer process eliminates the need for heavier-weight abrasion overlays, tapes anhd bindings, and adds increased strength to the most crucial points on the garment, which dramatically extends the life of the garment. 

Ingrain (filament yarn): Descriptive of a filament yarn composed of filaments of different colours, the ingrain effect being produced by the random exposure of the differently coloured filaments at the yarn surface. 

Ingrain (yarn): Yarn spun from a mixture of fibres of different colours, where the mixing of coloured fibres is carried out at an early stage., See also worsted yarns, colour terms. 

Inkle, beggar's: A fabric constructed as linsey-wolsey in the 18th and early 19th centuries. 

Inseam: The distance from the bottom of a trouser leg to the crotch. The measurement is taken along the inside leg seam that joins the front and the back leg panels. 

Insulation: With respect to a fabric, a material that protects from the loss of warmth or the penetration of cold. 

Interfacing: Fabrics used to support, reinforce and give shape to fashion fabrics in sewn products. Often placed between the lining and the outer fabric., it can be made from yarns or directly from fibers, and may be either woven, nonwoven, or knitted. Some interfacings are designed to be fused (adhered with heat from an iron), while others are meant to be stitched to the fashion fabric. 

Interlining: An insulation, padding, or stiffening fabric, either sewn to the wrong side of the lining or the inner side of the outer shell fabric for extra weight and warmth. The interlining is used primarily to provide warmth in coats, jackets, and outerwear. 2. Firm stiff linen canvas for men's coats. 

Interlock: A special type of eight-lock knit cloth. The stitch variation of the rib stitch, which generally resembles a double 1 x 1 ribbed fabric that is interknitted with crossed sinker wales. Plain (double knit) interlock stitch fabrics are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single knit constructions. The fabric has a smooth surface on both sides, and possesses good wearing qualities. 

International Grey Scales: Two series of pairs of chips that show increasing contrast within pairs, and are used visually for comparing the differences in colour of textile specimens or the degrees of staining of transfer cloths attached to the test specimens, that occur during colour fastness testing. 
A) basic scale for assessing change in colour 
A scale that consists of five pairs of non-glossy grey-coloured chips, and in which a fastness rating of 5 (indicating no colour change) at one end of the scale is represented by two identical grey chips, and a fastness rating of 1 (indicating a severe colour change) at the other end of the scale is represented by a pair of grey chips having a colour difference of 13,6 cielab units. 
B) basic scale for assessing staining 
A scale that consists of one pair of white and four pairs of non-glossy grey- and white-coloured chips, and in which a fastness rating of 5 (indicating severe staining) at one end of the scale is represented by the pair of white chips, and a fastness rating of 1 (indicating severe staining) at the other end of the scale is represented by a pair of chips having a colour difference of 34,1 cielab units. Note: both scales may be augmented to form a 9-step scale by the provision of similar chips that illustrate the perceived colour differences corresponding to the half-step fastness ratings. 

Intarsia: Weft-knitted plain, rib, or purl fabrics containing designs in two or more colours. Each area of colour is knitted from a separate yam, which is contained entirely within that area., (2) a motif design in stitch and/or colour. 

Intarsia: A knit fabric with an inlaid pattern in contrasting color, usually geometric. The design appears on one part of the fabric rather than all over as a jacquard. It is generally engineered to fall on a certain area of the garment. 

Interfacing: A fabric, usually a nonwoven, that is meant to be fused or sewn to another to give it body and shape. 

Interlining: Any one of a wide variety of fabrics used between the inner and outer layers of a garment to improve shape retention, strength, warmth or bulk. Interlining may be of woven, knitted, or nonwoven material and may be produced with or without a fusible adhesive coating. 

Interlock: A double face knit fabric with 1x1 rib on each side. Usually firm and closely knit. 

Interlock, Weft-Knitted: A double-faced rib-based structure consisting of two 1 x i rib fabrics joined by interlock loops. It is made on machines equipped with two sets of opposed needles, from various materials for a variety of purposes, including outerwear. 

Intermingled Yarn: A multifilament yarn in which cohesion is imparted to the filament bundle by entwining the filaments instead of, or in addition to, twisting. The effect is usually achieved by passing under light tension through the turbulent zone of an air-jet., Note 1: some manufacturers describe such a product as an interlaced yarn., Note2. Intermingling should be distinguished from air-texturing (see textured yam) in which a much higher level of entanglement is achieved with the objective of producing texture or bulk. 

Intermingling jet: An air-operated device used as an ancillary to some processes of yam extrusion, of drawing and texturing to induce intermingling. 

Iridescent: A fabric with a changeable color effect depending on the angle of view and lighting. It is usually the result of weaving with one color in the warp and another in the weft. 

Irish Lace: Refers to any lace made in Ireland. Most often they are crochet or needlepoint laces. 

Irish Lawn: A lawn fabric produced from fine linen yarns. 

Irish Linen: A woven fabric produced in Ireland. from 100% flax yam. 

Irish Linen Yarn: 100% flax yarn spun in Ireland. 

Irish poplin: A poplin made from a dyed pure silk organzine warp and a three-fold genapped fine worsted weft. It is a silk-face and -back fabric, the weft being completely covered by the warp. The fabric is usually handwoven and is frequently given a moir finish. 

Izar: A kind of pyjama (q. V.). 

Izarband: Drawstring at the waist for a garment like the pyjama (q.v.). Literally, 'fastening of the izar'. 

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