Fiber Production In The World. |
The Vast Majority Of
Textile Fibers Both Natural And Synthetic Are Made Of Polymers
This gives textile
fibers some very unique and valuable properties. Polymers are large
molecules that possess a chain like character. These chains consist
of repeating groups of atoms that are covalently bonded to one
another. The word polymer comes from the Greek in which poly means
many and meros means part. Polyester is a polymer with a relatively
simple repeat unit – your DNA is an example of a polymer with a
very complex repeat unit. An exception: glass
Synthetic
Polymerization
We take a collection of
mers and take them from an unreactive to reactive state often by use
of heat, pressure and a catalyst. Via this technique we can take
ethylene gas and turn it into polyethylene plastic for example. As we
change the elements composing the mer molecule so we change the
attributes of the final fiber extruded.
The Incorporation Of
The Methyl Side Group Gives Polypropylene Some Important Differences
From Polyethylene
Polypropylene has a
higher melting point, Polypropylene is more brittle than
polyethylene, 9 g/d tenacity and 18% elongation at break for
polypropylene vs. 3 g/d tenacity and 40% elongation at break for
conventional polyethylene. Polypropylene can be made in 6 different
isomers only one of which – head to tail isotactic is used in
commerce to form fibers. Polyethylene is tougher than polypropylene
rather like some nylons are tougher than some polyesters.
Polyethylene And
Polypropylene Share Some Things In Common
Neither of these fiber
types dye well as they are bereft of dye sites they are both in the
olefin generic class. Both carry the same generic name: olefin. Both
have low specific gravities as can be determined by AATCC Test Method
20 - of around 0.9
Having Some
Understanding Of Textile Fiber Polymers
Provides a solid
foundation for understanding how fibers behave. How they dye. How
they burn and react to heat. How they shrink. How strong they are.
How colorfast they are.
Wallace Carothers And
The Invention Of Nylon
Wallace Carothers is
credited with the invention of sythetic rubber and nylon around 1933
at Dupont. Fiber went commercial around 1938 and is still used
extensively today. Dupont recouped all investment in nylon 6,6 within
30 days of plant startup as there had been nothing like it before.
Fiber Properties And
Polymer Chain Entanglement
Due to the way in which
polymer chains group themselves together in a fiber, fibers are
endowed with unique characteristics in-between those of brittle
plastics and rubber elastics. In a fiber we have a two phase system:
Crystals contribute strength and amorphous regions give stretch. All
other things being equal as we increase polymer chain length so we
increase fiber strength.
Comparison Of
Conventional And Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene
Spectra® Ultra High
Molecular Weight Polyethylene:
Typical polymer repeat
length in the tens of thousands. 3% elongation at break. Tenacity 38
g/denier.
Conventional
Polyethylene:
Typical polymer repeat
length in the thousands. 40 % elongation at break. Tenacity 3 g/denier.
Pendant Groups, Side
Groups or Functional Groups
By adding various atoms
or molecules along the polymer backbone, be it all carbon or
otherwise we can radically effect fiber properties. We can add dye
sites to impart specific dye affinity for example cationic and
dyeable polyester. We can add flame resistance as seen in Treviera CS
and similar fibers. If we take a carbon carbon backbone like we have
in the olefins and add a particular pendant nitrogen containing group
– what fiber do we end up with?
Thermoplasticity
The softening and
melting behavior of textile fibers is a direct result of the way in
which the polymer chains are interconnected. If the polymerchains are
free to move when heated then they will soften and melt. If applied
heat breaks up the chains before they are free to move then the fiber
merely chars when heated rather than melting. In general those fibers
which soften and melt can be heatset . This process in an extremely
valuable finishing technique that can impart very high dimensional
stability to fabrics so treated.
What To Think About In
Addition To Force Elongation Curves
What is the fiber's
ability to recover from repeated cyclic stress? What is the fiber's
stress strain curve in solvents and in water? What is the
relationship between toughness and tensile strength with respect to
the force elongation curve? Our units of toughness (the area under
the force elongation curve): joules or energy to break.
The Relationship
Between Fiber Bending Stiffness And Diameter
Bending stiffness is
proportional to diameter to the fourth power. So if we increase the
diameter of a fiber threefold the bending stiffness increases 34 = 81
times. This is the reason why multi-strand copper wire is so much
more flexible than single strand wire of the same thickness.
Explaining The Behavior
Of Microdenier Fibers Using The Bending Stiffness And Specific Area
Rules
Microdenier fibers
produce yarns and fabrics that are very soft due to the reduced
bending stiffness explained by our bending stiffness diameter rule.
Microdenier fibers require more dye per unit weight than do thicker
fibers to achieve the same depth of shade, a phenomenon explained by
the large additional surface area that must be dyed to a given color
depth.
Specialty Synthetic
Fibers
Specialty synthetic
fibers are rather like specialty animal fibers. There are quite a few
of them but not a huge amount of poundage is produced in any of them.
They serve some very important end uses such as body armor. There are
many of these, with special characteristics such as anti bacterial
performance, high or low wicking, UV resistance flame resistance and
high strength.
Summary Of Generic
Fiber To Polymer Type Relationships
Generic Fiber Type »»»»
Typical Polymeric Make Up
Cotton »»»»
Cellulose,
Polyester »»»»
Polyethyleneterephthalate,
Rayon »»»»
Cellulose,
Nylon »»»»
Polyamide,
Acrylic »»»»
Polyacrylonitrile,
Acetate »»»»
Cellulose diacetate,
Olefin »»»»
Polyethylene or Polypropylene,
Ramie »»»»
Cellulose,
Linen »»»»
Cellulose,
Wool »»»» Alpha
Keratin,
Cashmere »»»» Alpha
Keratin,
Silk »»»» Fibroin,
There Are Three Main
Systems For Extruding Synthetic Fibers
Dry Spinning, Wet
Spinning, Melt Spinning, The extrusion system can effect
characteristics like fiber cross section.
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excellent..
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